REVIEWS
13 Reviews
DoopSoup
So happy with my pair of Otaki's! I previously had women's Finales from La Sportiva and Was ready for something that was just a little more aggressive. It has a really nice edge for tiny chips, and works really well accommodating my "greek foot" type. Love them at the gym and outdoors. I also tried on La Sportiva's Skwama but they just didn't seem as well made, and I disliked the fit. So hooray for Otaki's!
Mkeath
It's hard to write a review for a shoe that I know is solid - people love it! But it's too wide for me narrow feet. I currently wear sportiva solutions for everything and will keep looking for another edging shoe.
Omi11
I bought these shoes a month ago and definitely notice a difference in my climbing. I have been climbing in beginner shoes for two years, and my climbing was ready for an upgrade. The toe box fits my foot well! It’s nice and tight, but not excruciating to put on.
LL75
Pro: Very adjustable, comfortable (top), good quality materials, performs well in general. Con: Took a while to break in, not very good for slabs.
Sandra
I've had these shoes for 2 years and just got a new pair. If you have a wide forefoot, this is the shoe for you! I struggled with other narrow climbing shoes having cramps after training ALL the time, but not anymore. The Otakis are stiff, aggressive, precise and comfortable. I've used them climbing at the gym and outdoors. After 2 years of using them at least twice a week, I noticed that the sole was thinner at the toes, so it is a very durable shoe. I went 1 size down, but could have gone even 1 1/2. Even though I am very happy with the fit, the heel is looser than the toe area. I think there might be better options for more advanced climbers for toe and heel hooking, but this is a great shoe that I would recommend to anyone. It did not take a lot of time to break in the shoes. I also had an odor problem with shoes from other brands, which was not the case with the Otakis. Don’t get me wrong, after two years they don’t smell like lavender, but I’ve also never used foot powder/deodorant or spray of any kind.
Abugo
My 9 year old loves this shoe. Gives her a lot of confidence on small and steep feet. It's stuff enough to give her the critical extra few inches of reach. It may actually be a little to stuff for a 55lb kid to smear with but overall it works great. Holds up well this is our second pair (outgrows them before they wear out)
Jana Keck
This is my third pair of Otakis and it will be very hard to ever stray away and branch out. These fit perfectly and always get the job done. I'm usually a 7.5 in normal shoes and wear the 37.5 in La Sportiva. They're very comfortable around my ankle and not too terribly tight on my toes. They're very durable and last a long while, depending upon how frequently I climb (mostly indoor).
Fern
These shoe is pretty true to size I usually wear size 6 US sneakers, got these in a 36 and they fit great. Otakis are also pretty comfortable for a more aggressive shoe especially after you break them in in a few sessions
PDXClimberGal
The Otaki climbing shoes are really aggressive for those overhung routes and micro chip foot holds. And, they are amazingly comfortable, molding to my feet after just a couple climbing sessions. I’m on my 10th pair of these, and will continue buying them as long as La Sportiva makes them.
UnfitStone
Bought the women's shoe over the men's due to a slightly better fit in the heel (feels a bit narrower and less deep) and the XS grip 2 rubber. Edging is amazing and they are fine for overhanging climbs. But the the small pieces of rubber on the toe patch aren't super useful. Anything that requires some serious toe hooking I would always switch to another shoe (usually shamans). But this has become my go to shoe for 80% of my climbs. If you only want one shoe then I think this is a great choice.
Rocdoc
I love these shoes! I was using the women’s Miura’s but these are stiffer and I can stand on smaller feet with confidence. They took a little getting use to - the weight seems to focus slightly to the side of where it does in my old shoes. But the precision is excellent and these are my new best friends.
Win327
I wore out a number of pairs of Miura VS and thought I'd never switch. However, the toe box was always too tight and I started forming callouses on my feet. These shoes have a wider toe box so my feet are more comfortable in them, but they are as aggressive as the Miuras. I can use these indoors for several hours or outside for multipitch climbs.
Neal
I got these for a for performance-y shoe to use outside and am very happy with them. As long as you take the time to fit them well, aggressive shoes feel fine, and lend much more solid footwork. Only thing these aren't great at is toe hooks, so I wouldn't necessarily recommend them if you're looking for a top-performance bouldering shoe. Great for Sport, though.
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