REVIEWS
5.0
100%
Recommended
3 Reviews
The Alchemist
Perfect belay device with extra security built in! I mostly sport climb and it’s been great to have that ATC feel with added security. From a belay stand point, it’s easy to feed slack to/from my climber—granted that your rope isn’t too thick. Using anything close or beyond 10 gets quite grippy. I’ve only used it for single pitch routes, but could work for multi-pitch in guide mode. Highly recommend for an affordable brake assist device!
harry
I'm a fan! It's lightweight and compact. I haven't used it as a substitute for a grigri, partially b/c I like to have a second belay device just in case. I heard rumors that it was hard to repel w/ so I made sure I used this device in repelling. I honestly like using it b/c I feel secure enough to not need a prusik. The auto-lock is excellent for when you need to sort out the rope that is inevitably tangled during a repel. This might be scary to some at first so I suggest you use this device in a controlled setting first. Loading the device is not intuitive, but once you know which way is up and down, it's very intuitive and the extra loop works well to auto lock. For those that don't like the auto-lock feature, you can easily load it in backwards and it becomes an ATC.
The Real ME
Hands down the best all around belay device in my opinion. It's basically a combination of an ATC, Guide, and a Gri Gri all in one, but at a fraction of the weight and waaaay more durable! Super light weight (65g) and stainless steel so it doesn't wear out like aluminum devices. Also, it doesn't heat up as much while rappelling or lowering. I used to burn through a reverso every season and a gri gri every couple years. And usually more than one HMS belay biner per season... Been using my megajul for over 4 years now with no sign of wear! And I've started using it with this HMS Bulletproof biner the past 2 years and it's barely showing any signs of wear! (see attached photo) It also doesn't get your rope as dirty since there's no anodized coating to wear off onto your rope. Especially when used with this bulletproof belay biner. And even more so if you use the bulletproof quickdraws as well! Not to mention the environmental aspect of not needing to replace these items nearly as frequently. These really are built to last! The brake assist works great, especially on ropes 9.5mm and under. Pays out rope effortlessly but locks up reliably when you need it. Also works great in guide mode for multi-pitch climbing, again better with a smaller diameter rope. Extremely versatile with the ability to rappel in regular mode like a classic atc, and also in brake assist mode which is super helpful when cleaning a route, untangling ropes while on rappel, or working on a stuck piece of gear. Like any new tool or piece of equipment, it took a short while to get used to using. I suggest watching the official Edelrid instruction video. But now I am completely sold and have been for years. I use mine for everything from single pitch sport cragging to ground up big wall FAs. (see other attached photo) It has replaced all my other belay device needs since it does it all! Can't say enough how much I love my mega jul!
Read All Reviews (3)
*Online only. First-time subscribers only. Returning subscribers will be resubscribed for marketing/promo emails.
*Online only. First-time subscribers only. Returning subscribers will be resubscribed for marketing/promo emails.
© 2025 Public Lands
If you are using a screen reader or other assistive technology and are having problems using this website, or if you have any other difficulties accessing this website, please call 1-844-890-0896 for assistance
*Donations are based on purchase price, excluding taxes or other charges. The Public Lands Fund is a program of the DICK’S Sporting Goods Foundation, a 501(c)(3) charity. Learn more at publiclandsfund.org.
