Hands down the best all around belay device in my opinion. It's basically a combination of an ATC, Guide, and a Gri Gri all in one, but at a fraction of the weight and waaaay more durable! Super light weight (65g) and stainless steel so it doesn't wear out like aluminum devices. Also, it doesn't heat up as much while rappelling or lowering. I used to burn through a reverso every season and a gri gri every couple years. And usually more than one HMS belay biner per season... Been using my megajul for over 4 years now with no sign of wear! And I've started using it with this HMS Bulletproof biner the past 2 years and it's barely showing any signs of wear! (see attached photo) It also doesn't get your rope as dirty since there's no anodized coating to wear off onto your rope. Especially when used with this bulletproof belay biner. And even more so if you use the bulletproof quickdraws as well! Not to mention the environmental aspect of not needing to replace these items nearly as frequently. These really are built to last! The brake assist works great, especially on ropes 9.5mm and under. Pays out rope effortlessly but locks up reliably when you need it. Also works great in guide mode for multi-pitch climbing, again better with a smaller diameter rope. Extremely versatile with the ability to rappel in regular mode like a classic atc, and also in brake assist mode which is super helpful when cleaning a route, untangling ropes while on rappel, or working on a stuck piece of gear. Like any new tool or piece of equipment, it took a short while to get used to using. I suggest watching the official Edelrid instruction video. But now I am completely sold and have been for years. I use mine for everything from single pitch sport cragging to ground up big wall FAs. (see other attached photo) It has replaced all my other belay device needs since it does it all! Can't say enough how much I love my mega jul!
Read More